The Trouble With Eyes..
Today, lets talk about the undereye area. In fact, lets start to think about the whole eye area as entirely separate to the rest of the face.
This is where the skin is the thinnest and we get the most fines lines and wrinkles. So, if the wrong products, tools and techniques are used, the whole area can end up looking worse instead of better.
The first thing that I recommend to clients in my makeup lessons is that you keep all skincare away from the eye and undereye area. It can mix with makeup products, such as mascara and cause transferring and the dreaded ‘panda eye’. Try to only use products that are especially designed to go under makeup.
PRODUCTS
I especially love the Bobbi Brown Eye Base for the undereye area. It hydrates and nourishes but is designed to be worn under makeup and doesn’t interfere with other eye makeup products.
For a more budget friendly alternative you could try this Revolution Pro Miracle Eye Cream
A nourished and hydrated undereye area is a great start if you’re trying to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
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You can also mix a tiny drop of oil into your concealer and I sometimes do this if clients are particularly conscious of their undereye or feel very dehydrated in this area. I love this Elemis Facial Oil and you only need the tiniest drop.
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Another thing to consider is whether or not you have dark circles under your eyes and if you are using your concealer to cover these. If you are placing concealer on top of dark circles, the result can sometimes look a little bit grey and ashy, particularly if the concealer is quite light.
My advice would be to use a colour corrector before you apply concealer. Shades of peach corrects dark circles and you should choose the shade of peach based on how dark your circles are. If it looks very peach going on, don’t panic! Concealer goes on top. One of my favourites is the Bobbi Brown Colour Corrector
Use your ring finger to tap and melt the product in to the area where you experience dark circles
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If you are conscious of your undereye, what you are looking for in a concealer is a product that has good coverage but has quite a thin consistency. So, something which sheers out nicely and doesn’t crease but has enough coverage to even out the skin tone in this delicate area.
So here are my recommendations for higher end and more budget friendly options
GIORGIO ARMANI POWER FABRIC
For me, working mostly on mature clients, this concealer has no equal. I rarely use anything else on a mature client. It has a beautiful silky consistency but with great coverage and when I come back to set it with powder after a short period of time, it has barely creased, even on a client with significant lines undereye. My most used shades are 3, 3.5 and 4. It is, without doubt, my favourite concealer.
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ELF CAMO CONCEALER
For a chemist shop option, this concealer delivers a smooth lightweight application with a decent level of coverage
Maybelline Age Eraser Concealer
A popular choice due to offering a buildable coverage which is easy to apply
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Using powder to set your concealer not only helps it to stay in place and helps prevent creasing but it also mattifies the area so it doesn’t look shiny and therefore more obvious. Powder will lock in the concealer, making it last longer too.
If you are scared of fine lines, the key is choosing a good powder which is finely milled and not heavy but also perhaps using a fluffy brush to apply it so it has a more diffused finish. For the undereye, I prefer a loose powder and tend to use a pressed powder to set the rest of the face.
My favourite powder for undereye The Givenchy Prism Libre Powder in Satin Blanc is a little more expensive but for me it is one of the most beautiful powders for the undereye. If you would like a more budget friendly alternative, I recommend the Maybelline Fit Me Loose Powder.
Tools
Using your fingers to apply concealer is often the best way and it just depends on your preference. Often the heat of your fingers melts concealer really well and is a quick and easy way of applying the product. Just try tapping and pressing rather than rubbing so you don’t move the product around too much and lose the coverage.
If you prefer to use a brush, this one is my absolute favourite. It’s got a slanted little finger shape that gets nicely into the inner corner. Don’t forget to use pressing motions
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TECHNIQUE
Consider that wherever you place product down first is where it’s going to sit the heaviest.
With this in mind, if you’re concerned about fine lines, try to avoid placing product directly in that area. I find a good technique is to place a little concealer in the inner corner and a little concealer in the outer corner slanted up towards the tail of the brow. You can then bring them together with the least amount of product going across the area where fine lines tend to gather.
My advice is always to tap and press the product in for the smoothest application and to ensure you don’t lose the coverage you need.
If you keep an eye on my instagram @dollypond_mua I will be doing a video about this soon and you can see the products, tools and techniques in action.
And as always, to learn everything you need to know, book yourself a makeup lesson right HERE
Lots of Love until next week
xx
